Ok, that’s the classical tourist cliché: crowds jostling on the Rialto bridge, expensive Gondola tours, bored “Gondolieri” singing O Sole Mio (which, by the way, is a Napolitan song, not a Venetian song…).
Yes, you will have it all! And, believe it or not, you will love it…
But there’s a Venice outside the classical Station-Rialto-San Marco itinearary, which is worthwhile to discover. And, by the way, you may discover that escaping from the crowd (and live for an hour or so like a true “Veneziano”) can save you quite a significant amount of money.
For instance, one of my favourites places to have lunch in Venice is the old Ghetto, in the Cannaregio District. It’s a very quiet area, close from the raylway station, hence overlooked by most travellers .
While walking towards Rialto on the main street, just turn left when you get to Campo S. Fosca and walk till Fondamenta Misericordia. Walk left along the Fondamenta (by the way, “Fondamenta” means a street parallel to a canal. The name comes from the fact that they serve as a base/foundation to buildings). This is what you see:
Here you will find severall of small restaurants (“osterie”), where you can sit and have a “fritto misto” (fried fish and squids) or a pasta with sea food (you must taste “pasta col nero di seppia” – spaghetti with squid ink).
My suggestion to stop and enjoy see food along the canal? Trattoria Misericordia, Cannaregio, 2515 (it’s the first one you will find coming from campo Santa Fosca). Very decent food, cheap prices.
For a more romantic restaurant (no tables outside, unfortunately) try Vini Da Gigio, Cannaregio 3628A, Fondamenta San Felice (you will find it on your left, when walking from Campo S. Fosca to Fondamenta Misericordia)
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