Best Christmas Nativity scenes in Italy

Visit Italy_Presepe

Discover the magical tradition of Italian Nativity scenes (“Presepe”) in Rome and in Naples, and attend the unique live Nativity scene in Greccio

Even though Christmas trees are widespread,  the traditional Italian Christmas decoration is by far the Nativity scenes: il “Presepe”. From December 8, the Feast Day of the Immaculate Conception, through January 6, the  Epiphany, you will find the Presepe literally in any family, church and shop. We could say that Presepe is the quintessence  of Italian Christmas.

The Presepe is a fascinating ancient tradition. It originated in Italy in 1291 when St. Francis of Assisi asked Giovanni Vellita from the village of Greccio to create a manger scene. St Francis held a Christmas Eve mass there, starting  a century old tradition. Over the years, displays became more and more elaborate, well  beyond the manger scene and  the traditional saints and biblical characters. The most elaborated  Presepi include vibrant and lively representations of an entire village or neighborhood, often in  a medieval-renaissance style setting. Complicated lights and water effects are fairly common.

If you are in Rome (or, in general, in southern and central Italy) around Christmas, you shouldn’t miss a Presepi  tour. It could actually be an interesting activity on Christmas day, when most museums are closed.

Best presepi map

Every single church will display his own Presepe, but some should definitely be part of your tour. Here are my pics.

St Peter’s nativity

Visit Italy_presepe San Pietro-2

Probably the most visited Nativity scene in Rome (of course!), it’s an open air Presepe, right on St Peter’s square, so you can’t miss it. It features life-size figures and last year  was inspired by the Unesco Heritage site “Sassi di Matera”. A Christmas Eve mass is held in St. Peter’s square, usually at 10 pm.

Visit Italy_Presepe San Pietro-1

Spanish steps nativity

Visit Italy_presepe Piazza di Spagna

The second largest Roman open air Presepe is located  right on the Spanish Steps. The nativity scene is set in a typicall old Roman neighborhood (looks like “old Trastevere”!). Funny enough, just down the Spanish steps the restaurant La Rampa offers a very similar setting in its main dining  room! It can be a convenient place for your “Pranzo di Natale” (Christmas lunch).

Santa Maria Maggiore nativity

Visit Italy_presepe Santa Maria Maggiore

This is the oldest known nativity scene. The first example of figurines for nativity scenes started in the late 13th century when Arnolfo di Cambio was commissioned to carve marble nativity figures for the first Rome Jubilee held in 1300. The nativity can be seen in the museum of Santa Maria Maggiore Church.

Other great Presepi to be visited can be found in the churches of Santi Cosma e Damiano, Santa Maria in Trastevere and Santa Maria in Aracoeli.

Santi Cosma e Damiano nativity

Santi Cosma e Damiano nativity

Santa Maria in Trastevere Nativity

Santa Maria in Trastevere nativity

Santa Maria in Aracoeli nativity

Santa Maria in Aracoeli nativity

Worthwhile visiting is also the exhibition “100 Presepi”, which is held in Piazza del Popolo.

By the way, if you during your visit you have the feeling that key characters are missing (including the Divine Infant himself…) don’t get too worried: characters “arrive” based on the biblical sequence, so you will only see Baby Jesus in his manger after the night of December 24, and the Magi after the Epiphany.

After all these tours, if you feel you still didn’t have enough Presepi, there are some great opportunities of touring around, using the hunt for the best nativity scenes as an alibi.

Naples – market of San Gregorio Armeno

Visit Italy_San gregorio Armeno market

Naples is the best city to hunt for Presepi. During the 17th and 18th century Naples turned the nativity into an art form. The presepi included the nativity scene but also represented life in Naples at the time. Today many artisans are still dedicated to the craft of creating handmade figures for Presepi.

The street Via San Gregorio Armeno in central Naples is filled with displays and stalls selling Nativity scenes all year. Don’t expect to find “only” an unbelievable variety of biblical figurines and settings. Given the world wide known fantasy of Neapolitan artisans, don’t be surprised to find, among  the traditional characters, also figurines of modernicons such as Steve Jobs and Pope Francesco the 1st!

Visit Italy_San Gregorio Armeno - Steve Jobs


Also interesting to visit is the Neapolitan Nativity Scenes Association  exhibition in Gesù nuovo church, in Piazza del Gesu’. Many of the handmade Presepe you will find are extremely elaborated and may use antique figures.

Greccio – living nativity

Visit Italy_Greccio Living Nativity

Each year, the small town of Greccio organizes the Historical Re-enactment of original San Francesco  living nativity scene. With the participation of people in medieval costumes, the historical representation brings to life the story of the birth of the first nativity scene (Christmas 1223) made by St. Francis of Assisi with the help of the Noble Lord John of Greccio Velita, (click here for the schedules).

Buon Natale!

__________________________________________________________________________________________________ Italy top destinations and travel itineraries, off the beaten path is the blog for all the ones in love with Italian culture, Italian sights, Italian monuments .. and with Italian food! If you wish to visit Italy for the first time, or if you already discovered Venice, Rome, Florence, the Amalfi coast, but still want more, is here to disclose to you Italian Must See as well as Italian hidden treasures. And if you like what you read, why not follow and get free updates?


13 thoughts on “Best Christmas Nativity scenes in Italy

  1. Hi there, just became alert to your blog through Google, and found that it is truly informative.
    I’m gonna watch out for brussels. I’ll be grateful if
    you continue this in future. A lot of people will
    be benefited from your writing. Cheers!


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s